SANGSIT The temples of North Bali differ from those in the south. Instead of the small shrines and meru towers of southern temples, a single pedestal, built on a terraced stone base, furnishes the inner courtyard. Often, the pedestal supports a padmasana, throne of the sun god, and sacred "houses" to store relics and serve as a resting place for deities during temple festivals. Next to the classical lines of southern decoration, North Balinese carving is forcefully baroque.  Every crevice of the temple proper is gaily carved in curves, flames, arabesques and spirals, cascading a light ebullience everywhere. A fine example of the northern style is Pura Beji in Sangsit, a subak temple dedicated to Dewi Sri, goddess of agriculture. Nagat snakes form the balustrade of the fine gateway. Fantastic physiognomies of imaginary beasts and devilish guardians peer from the entangled flora, deliberately cocked at an angle to throw the facade slightly off balance. This dynamic asymmetry continues in the inner sanctuary. Jawless birds, fierce tigers and sunflowers project from every part of the pedestal. Rows of stone towers jut up from the terraces, forming a labyrinth of pink sandstone. To counterbalance the overpowering decor, the courtyard is spacious and decorated with only a few frangipani trees. The North Balinese sculptural style with its caricatural tendency is found on other temples in the area-besides on the temples mentioned at Sangsit, Jagaraga and Kubutambahan-for example, on temples at Bungkulan and Bebetin. As you drive along the north coast road, also keep your eyes open for wooden split drums or kulkuls which are carved with a human head on top. For some reason they are rarely found in South Bali. Examples may be seen at Bungkulan (the village past Sangsit), dt Kubutambahan, and the finest of all at Tejakula. |
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